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      您现在的位置:主页 > 服饰 > 时尚先锋 > 伦敦时装周大回顾,一起围观明年春夏的时髦新穿搭

      伦敦时装周大回顾,一起围观明年春夏的时髦新穿搭

      导读:

      最近真的是比较忙,在长假的时候看你们到处打卡游玩,我就在这里给赶作业了。时装周终于结束,伦敦的先交给上来。咱们今天就来好好盘点一下各大秀场的精彩部分。

      这次伦敦时装周,我受邀观看了好几场秀,首先就是伦敦开场秀Mark Fast

      在T台上开一场丛林派对怎么样?设计师Mark Fast就做到了!灵感于一次《国家地理》的偶然阅读,来自亚马逊神奇的动植物元素。

      动物纹不再止步于靴子,男生的阔腿裤、女士的西装都野性而霸气。

      荧光色继续霸占时尚头条,粉色、绿色和黄色撞出别样的时髦感。

      流苏、渔网将硬朗与柔美完美融合,以前不敢想的单品这回居然爱上了!

      另外还看了BORA AKSU 2020春夏秀。

      一口气向波斯公主Taj Saltaneh、艺术家Frida Kahlo和Maria Berrio三位女性致敬。

      耀眼出挑的色彩,不同面料的组合,再配合独具创意的剪裁,为眼前呈现出一片绚烂多彩的画卷,带来自由烂漫而不失力量的感觉。

      而与此同时,模特们的麻花辫,脚上的小红靴以及肩上的背包,更带来鬼马俏皮的气息…

      真是每一件单品都想拥有。

      接下来是最具代表性的Burberry,Burberry这一季很丰富,风格多变,既有精英气儿的高级时装,又有轻松活泼的街头时装。这一季可以感受到Tisci和Burberry更加契合,运动街头风融入高级时装更加自然和谐。

      合身的西装和长风衣潇洒利落;

      泡泡袖,裹身裙,流苏增添维多利亚式的古典浪漫;

      字母印花,色块拼接的衬衣,外套朝气蓬勃。细节处闪耀的珠片和锁链为低调质感的look注入亮点,增添光芒。

      风格上柔中带刚,虽然每一套look有主打风格但也会融入一些其他风格,收腰的西装,风衣上的钉珠,蕾丝裙上的字母印花……

      色彩上以知性优雅的卡其色作为主色调,黑白灰穿插其中,色彩上和谐统一。色彩,风格和剪裁虽各有千秋但内里统一,构成了这个完整而又和谐的系列。

      这一季配饰也同样不俗,维多利亚风的帽子(明星们这是防偷拍躲狗仔的神器啊,安排!)

      水滴状的水晶吊坠,风格各异但实用性都挺强的包袋……

      Tisci 在Burberry很好的一点是他让Burberry的新logo遍布每一个地方,(遮阳伞 大楼 巨型公仔……)但是他没有把Burberry的logo一股脑铺在衣服上,铺满logo的look极少,没有把Burberry弄成一个卖logo的牌子。

      然后是Victoria Beckham,有人评论Victoria Beckham这个牌子就是以贝嫂衣橱为标准来打造的,高级时髦却少了点趣味。

      这一季风格依旧,干练利落中又不乏柔软,简洁又时髦,还多了几分明朗的复古。色彩上多是轻快明亮的鹅黄、裸色、苹果绿、蓝色等颜色,复古明媚。

      款式上则赋以硬朗帅气的西装外套和风衣柔和的色彩;

      颈上和腰间绽放的花朵彰显着春夏的生机;

      千鸟格和荷叶边的丝绸衬衫带来复古风情;

      来自日间通勤的西装、夹克与大衣和属于晚装的V领、斜搭肩长裙交相辉映,编织着Victoria女郎们的新季优雅“战甲”。

      前几天凭借青花瓷元素火了一把的Simone Rocha这一季也同往季一样,洋溢着英式田园的气息。

      Simone Rocha这一季没有使用太时尚的元素,薄纱、蕾丝、珍珠、花卉、草编等“相对陈旧”的元素的汇集,打造了一位位从古典油画里走出来的少女。

      尤其是薄纱的使用,模特在走动过程中美好的身材若隐若现,十分梦幻,黑白配look和铆钉的加入让这抹梦幻又多了几分犀利与个性。

      小范围出圈的“青花瓷裙”配色上很清爽,青花的元素运用虽然不是很地道却开发出了青花的另一种美,一向端庄典雅的青花也可以那么少女。

      细节处也是十分美丽,油画般的珍珠耳环;镶有珍珠和铆钉的头饰;

      稻草编织的“胸针”;裤腿处的珍珠……少女心无处不在。这一季的模特不仅是年轻的女孩们,还有阿姨们,奶奶们,追求少女心没有时间的限制。但是这一季版型不够友好,过于蓬松,稍有不慎就会成为孕妇装。

      Simone Rocha几乎每一季的廓形和设计手法都“稳如磐石”,但却总能在原有的基础上玩出许多的花样,这也是她很厉害的一点。

      Erdem 这一季将墨西哥传统服饰和廓形融入新季服装中,浪漫依旧。

      这一季的设计及其女性化,帅气的西装做了收腰剪裁,上面还缀满了珍珠;洒脱的风衣也布满了优雅的镂空,更不用说各式裙装。

      缤纷繁复印花、提花裙搭配着宽檐帽、丝巾,一位位从墨西哥归来的英式名媛行走在繁华盛开,争妍斗艳的花园里。

      层层叠叠的丝绸和珍珠带来华丽;大面积的印花仿佛把春天的花园穿在身上;鲜艳的色彩是春夏特有的明媚,同时也带来异域风情。

      但是Erdem这一季对于硬件要求过高,宽松无腰身设计且肩部廓形较大的长裙一不留神就会是巨肩女战士;状态或仪态不好的话就像穿着华丽的睡裙出街;

      气质不好就由英伦名媛沦为“翠花上酸菜”;大面积密集的印花也不是常人能够驾驭,很容易被衣服吃掉。我等硬件一般的常人就康康各路高人如何演绎吧。

      Halpern这一季无比华丽闪耀,野性性感。

      光泽感绝佳的丝绸面料外加布满亮片的面料,闪耀度满分。白昼与夜晚,海洋和陆地在这一季碰撞。

      代表陆地的豹纹打造出东非草原上狩猎女神;

      线条锋利的耳饰散发着危险的光芒,耀眼的亮片化作海妖身上的鳞片,折射着月光,下一秒就要唱出动人却致命的歌。

      廓形不错,不臃肿,显得人很修长;款式简洁,大部分留白较多,不会显得太满。

      Dilara Findikoglu这一季风格非常90s,和90s的大神们(John Galliano、Jean Paul Gaultier、Alexander McQueen、Vivienne Westwood等)的设计风格很像。

      Dilara Findikoglu这场秀也十分直接地表达了对西太后(Vivienne Westwood)的崇拜,直接把“Vivienne Says Buy Less”写在模特身体上。

      在秀服上也贯彻了“buy less”的宣言。秀服大多采用vintage,将它们重新组合,赋予它们新的生命。

      秀场上还融入宗教、黑魔法等元素,散发着诡异的美感。束身胸衣外加低腰的设计复古又性感。

      宗教、复古、性感、墨西哥等风格的糅杂,组成了这个看似混乱却充满生机和张力的系列,这不就是伦敦时装周所需要的风格吗?

      既然说到了崇拜者Dilara Findikoglu,那就不得不提被崇拜者Vivienne Westwood。

      西太后这一季依旧很酷,(因为环保原因,Vivienne Westwood宣布不办秀,每一季通过发布lookbook来展示新品)主题是“NO MAN’S LAND”,探索未来世界的荒芜。

      无论是从单品还是背景都呈现了抗议不环保行为的呐喊,枯朽的树木;荒芜的黄昏;高举的旗帜;醒目的标语……

      除了环保元素,西太后最爱的英伦摇滚在这一季也没有落下,不羁又前卫,化身朋克人士,保护地球。

      Margaret Howell最早是做男装的品牌,后来开设了女装线,这个品牌一直都在诠释“less is more”的时尚理念。

      在这个追逐潮流,迎合市场的时代,Margaret Howell这种不随波逐流的风格派的品牌尤为罕见和可贵。

      这一季简洁依旧,细节处又十分用心,俏皮的针织帽;精致的丝巾;宽度合适的腰带等的运用别致可爱。

      同时boyish和effortless chic的风格驾驭起来也不费太多力气,实穿度很高。配色清爽,剪裁利落,版型合身有趣,舒适又好穿。

      Ports 1961这一季由新任艺术总监Karl Templer打造,一改往日的低调沉静,变得大胆喧嚣。摩登与经典碰撞出火花,传统元素用现代方式表达,更加丰富多元。

      这一季用色十分大胆,素雅的鹅黄,灰蓝,乳白,脏粉……热烈张扬的火红,橘红,艳粉……各种色彩的拼接碰撞,热闹得很。条纹,花卉印花,动物纹理,渔网是这一季的主打。

      设计上这一季多采用拼接的手法,卡其色的风衣外套遇上红白格纹;白色吊带丝绸裙用棕色渔网做内搭;颜色各异的花卉印花丝绸组合在一起成了“睡衣风”look;用童趣烂漫的印花来中和严谨理性的格纹……就个人审美而言更喜欢以前的系列,低调简洁却有设计感。

      搭配上倒是有很多值得借鉴的部分,睡衣风需要一些提气的单品,耳环项链等细节要到位才不是穿着睡衣没收拾就出门的糙汉子;

      全身条纹记得变换宽度及朝向;西服套装无聊?试试在裤边,裤腿和内搭上做做花样;全身印花怕驾驭不住就用纯色来中和。

      Julien Macdonaled这一季真的太!性!感!了!

      透视、深V、挖空、高开叉、超短裙,加上美好的肉体,性感满分。泳装很有设计感,但是绑带的设计莫名像Versace;

      金属色,针织设计,飘逸的流苏,闪片是这一季的主角,打造出一位位性感的希腊女神。粉色的斜搭肩长裙很Elie Saab,总体很美但是缺乏辨识度。

      Christopher Kane这一季将花田草地和星辰宇宙穿在身上,自然元素的灵感来源于Christopher和妹妹Tammy在London Fields度过的夏日。

      这一季同样充满了各种碰撞,草地星空与PVC等科技感较强的材质,流动液体的手袋配饰碰撞,自然与科技的结合,工业浪漫的一季。

      复古的棕色与未来感十足的银色闪光面料碰撞;精致怀旧的蕾丝,羽毛与新锐的PVC碰撞;高级时装与街头运动风格的碰撞……

      本季色彩浓烈,饱和度高的红、蓝、黄……及亮眼的荧光色随处可见,间或的黑色和棕色有压制了几分张扬。

      各种镂空与挖孔设计设计感满满,金属球的点缀带有力量感且十分讨喜。

      相对于纽约时装周的颓势而言伦敦时装周更加有趣,风格更加多变,也更有人文气息。伦敦时装周的特色,先锋前卫这一季也得到很好的的体现,总体而言,这一季伦敦时装周不错。

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